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"Your First 30 Days in Uruguay" — everything you need to know before and after you arrive, in a PDF you can take with you.
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From goat to roast meat, from pastries to Tannat—an honest guide to what to eat in Uruguay, where to eat it, and why Uruguayan cuisine will surprise you more than you expect.
Uruguayan cuisine doesn't have the international fame of Peruvian cuisine or the marketing of Argentine cuisine, but it has something that many better-known cuisines lack: authenticity. Few ingredients, high-quality ingredients, and simple preparations. Once you get the hang of it, it's hard not to get hooked.
If you had to eat just one thing in Uruguay, it would be the chivito. It’s the national sandwich: thin slices of beef (churrasco), cooked ham, bacon, a fried or hard-boiled egg, cheese, tomato, lettuce, bell pepper, olives, and mayonnaise—all on a soft, fluffy bun. It’s over-the-top in the best possible way.
In Uruguay, there’s a heated debate over which bakery makes the best chivito in Montevideo. Every neighborhood has its favorite. There’s no right answer, but there are definitely wrong ones—avoid the ones in the malls.
Uruguayan barbecue deserves its own guide (and it has one), but in the context of gastronomy: the Uruguayan barbecue tradition is among the best in the world. Uruguayan beef comes from grass-fed cattle, raised without feedlots, in open pastures. You can really taste the difference.
The Mercado del Puerto is packed with tourists. If you want a more authentic and affordable experience, ask a local Uruguayan to take you to their favorite neighborhood steakhouse. That’s where the locals go on Sundays.
"Las facturas" is the general term for sweet pastries eaten for breakfast or as a snack. Uruguay has a strong bakery culture—the neighborhood bakery is just as important as the grocery store.
Coffee with milk (feca) + croissants or pastries. At any neighborhood café or bar, this costs between $150 and $280 UYU (~$3–6 USD). It’s one of the simplest and most affordable pleasures of living in Uruguay.
Uruguay experienced a massive wave of Italian immigration between 1880 and 1950. This is evident in the cuisine: pasta is a staple of the Uruguayan diet, and pizza has its own local version.
The 29th of every month is "Gnocchi Day"—a tradition of Italian origin that is deeply rooted in Uruguay. People place money under their plates to attract prosperity for the month. Pasta restaurants are packed. It's completely serious.
Uruguayan pizza is different from Italian and Argentine pizza. It’s thicker, loaded with cheese, and sometimes topped with fainá (more on that below). It’s served in pizzerias that have been operating in the same locations for decades.
Fainá is a chickpea flour flatbread of Genoese origin, baked and served either on top of pizza or on its own. It’s dense, slightly oily, and perfect. If you order pizza at a traditional pizzeria and don’t ask for fainá, they’ll look at you funny.
Uruguayan dulce de leche has a reputation all its own, even among Argentines, who also claim it as their own. It’s firmer than the Argentine version, less cloying, and has a more pronounced caramel flavor. It’s used in everything: croissants, alfajores, cakes, ice cream, pancakes, or simply by the spoonful straight from the jar.
A jar of Conaprole dulce de leche or a box of artisanal alfajores are the most appreciated gifts to bring back when you travel. They’re better than any souvenir from a tourist shop.
Tannat is Uruguay’s signature grape. It is a variety of French origin (from the southwest) that has found its finest expression in Uruguayan soils. Uruguayan Tannat wines are full-bodied reds with firm tannins and plenty of character. The main growing region is Canelones, located 30–60 minutes from Montevideo.
The "medio y medio" is Montevideo's signature drink: half still white wine, half sparkling white wine. Refreshing, low in alcohol, and perfect with pizza and fainá. It originated at La Ronda bar in Ciudad Vieja and is now served throughout the city.
Grappa mixed with honey. It sounds strange, but it works perfectly. It’s the Uruguayan digestif. It’s drunk after meals, especially during the colder months. You can find it in every grocery store and bar.
Uruguayan sangria: white or rosé wine mixed with seasonal fruits, sugar, and sometimes a splash of soda water. It’s made in a pitcher and served ice-cold. The perfect summer drink.
From Monday through Friday at lunchtime, almost all restaurants and bars offer a "daily special" or "dish of the day": an appetizer + main course + dessert or drink for a fixed price. It costs between $350 and $600 UYU (~$7–13 USD). It’s the cheapest and most satisfying way to enjoy a good meal in Montevideo.
Uruguay has a very extensive network of supermarkets. Prices are higher than in Argentina or Paraguay, but the quality is consistent and the local products are excellent.
Uruguayan dairy products (cheese, yogurt, butter) are high quality and reasonably priced. Meat at neighborhood butcher shops is significantly cheaper and better than what you’ll find in supermarkets. Look for the butcher shop closest to your apartment—neighborhood butchers are a lifesaver.